What a Concrete Quote Should Itemize

A homeowner in South Hills sent me three quotes last month, all for the same 600 square foot driveway, and asked me which one to take. Two were a single number each: $9,800 and $11,200. The third ran four pages with a line for every operation. I told her to set aside the first two, not because they were expensive, but because there was no way to know what either of them actually included.

Demolition and Haul-Off

Removing an existing slab gets priced two ways: by square foot of surface or by cubic yard of material hauled away, and the two numbers can diverge a lot on a slab that’s thicker than it looks. A quote should state which basis is being used and where the debris is going, because tipping fees and haul distance both move the price.

Excavation, Base, and Formwork

Excavation and spoil removal are their own line, separate from demo, because digging out soft or unsuitable soil below an old slab is a different job than breaking up concrete. The base line should name the material — crusher run, or a specific graded stone — the compacted thickness in inches, and the compaction standard being targeted, since 95 percent standard compaction and “we’ll tamp it down” are not the same commitment. Formwork is a labor and material line of its own; it matters more on a job with curves, steps, or a steep grade than on a flat rectangle.

Concrete, Reinforcement, Joints, and Curing

The concrete line should state the compressive strength in psi, the air content as a percentage, and the number of cubic yards being ordered — a 4,000 psi mix with 5 to 7 percent air entrainment is a common residential exterior spec in a climate that sees forty-plus freeze-thaw cycles a winter, and a quote that doesn’t name a strength or an air content is leaving that decision to whoever shows up with the truck. Reinforcement needs a bar size or mesh gauge, spacing, and how it’s held up off the base during the pour, since reinforcement lying flat on the ground does almost nothing. Joint cutting and curing are frequently the two items missing entirely; ask when control joints get cut and how curing is being managed, because both affect whether the slab cracks where you want it to or wherever it feels like.

Everything After the Pour

Surface finish, cleanup, and who is responsible for sales tax and permit fees should each appear by name, not as a footnote. Any quote worth comparing should also state how allowances work — what happens if the excavator hits rock, or soft ground, or an old sidewalk footer nobody knew was there — and how change orders get priced before the work starts, not after. A single total tells you what someone wants for the job. It tells you almost nothing about whether that number is fair, because you can’t compare a number to another number when you don’t know what’s inside either one. Once you have an itemized quote in hand, the next step is lining it up against at least two others; see getting three comparable concrete bids for how to do that without comparing apples to a fruit basket.

The National Ready Mixed Concrete Association publishes consumer-facing guidance on mix specifications worth reading before evaluating any quote’s concrete line, because knowing what a normal residential spec looks like is the only way to tell whether a number is missing something or just efficient.

Frequently asked questions

Why does one quote look so much cheaper than the others? A quote that’s dramatically lower usually has a scope item missing rather than a genuinely lower price for the same work; check base thickness, reinforcement, and haul-off before assuming it’s a deal.

What is a normal air content for a driveway mix? Residential exterior flatwork in a freeze-thaw climate commonly runs 5 to 7 percent entrained air, though the right figure depends on the specific mix and exposure.

Should a quote list the concrete strength in psi? Yes; a residential driveway or slab quote that doesn’t name a compressive strength is leaving that decision unstated, and it should be pinned down in writing before the pour.

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Contents

  1. 01Sidewalk Flags and Vault Slabs in New York: Who Fixes What
  2. 02Basement Slabs on Georgia Red Clay: Vapor and Heave
  3. 03Frost Heave Under a Driveway in Northeast Wisconsin
  4. 04Driveway Slabs on Red Clay: What Actually Moves Them
  5. 05Paving in a Historic District: What You Can and Cannot Pour
  6. 06Steep Driveways: Traction, Drainage and Turnarounds
  7. 07Post-Tension or Rebar on Central Texas Clay
  8. 08Pool Decks and Salt: What Fails First in South Florida
  9. 09Why Driveways Crack at the Apron First
  10. 10Where a Slab Meets a Masonry Wall: Isolation Joints
  11. 11Limestone Paving in Central Texas: Sealing and Slip
  12. 12Brick-Paved Alleys and Driveways: What Keeps Them Flat
  13. 13Curb Cuts, Aprons and Where the City Line Falls
  14. 14Pouring on Caliche: What That Hardpan Does to a Slab
  15. 15Paver Driveways on a Hillside: Base Depth and Edge Restraint
  16. 16Why a Desert Garage Slab Still Fails a Moisture Test
  17. 17Grinding Versus Acid Etching Before a Garage Coating
  18. 18Tying an Addition Slab Into an Existing Foundation
  19. 19Slab or Piers Under a Sunroom: How to Choose
  20. 20Condenser Pads and Slab Penetrations in a Two-Family
  21. 21Equipment Pads in a Crawlspace and Why They Sink
  22. 22Where Roof Water Lands on a Driveway
  23. 23Moss, Shade and Slabs in the Willamette Valley
  24. 24Degreasing a Concrete Floor Before Anything Else
  25. 25De-Icer Residue on Warehouse Floors
  26. 26Thresholds and Trim: Where Timber Meets a Slab